When it comes to growing green grass, the team at Carbutts know a thing or two, as we always make sure the freshly cut turf we deliver is lush and green and ready to lay.
So if you’re wondering how to make your lawn greener naturally, you’ve come to the right place.
Knowing how to make grass green naturally takes experience to get it just right, but there are some basic things to remember that should help you to get off to a greener start.
New grass turning yellow is a sign of something wrong, but in order to fix the problem, you’ll need to know what is causing the discolouration in your grass.
There are two main ways grass can turn yellow. It could be a problem with the grass itself, or it could be an external problem.
Problems with the grass itself can include:
Meanwhile some examples of external factors include:
In general if your lawn is well established, it should be possible to recover healthy green growth, although of course if the discolouration is extensive you can always returf a damaged lawn and start again.
The secret to how to make grass green fast really depends on the cause of the problem.
External factors can be removed, the grass hosed down to wash off any residues, and it should soon be back to its best.
Internal factors need curing from within. That means carrying out the usual regular lawn maintenance tasks, but maybe with even more care and attention than usual.
Unfortunately there’s an inevitable trade-off between a lawn that looks great and one that you use regularly with your kids and pets – the more traffic your lawn gets, the harder it is to keep it looking pristine.
Our Gold Standard Turf is one way to give your lawn more of a fighting chance, as it’s ultra hard-wearing and a great option for family homes.
If you’re confident you’ve removed any external pollutants and that your soil is in good condition, there are a few remaining tips for how to get dark green grass faster.
Some people are surprised when they learn that they should water their lawn less often – this encourages the grass to put down deeper roots in search of water and will help it to stay green in future dry spells.
Finally, consider leaving it a little longer when you mow your lawn. This is more forgiving on any uneven patches but it also puts less stress on individual blades, helping them to stay green immediately after mowing and giving you that lush, deep colour for longer.
If you want to start fresh with a lush green lawn, consider our professional lawn laying service to get you off on the right foot.
Always a tricky question for the hobby or casual gardener and normally something that gets overlooked. Most of us tend to ‘Hover mow’ the hell out of it and leave it at that.
But feeding your lawn can make all the difference between having a short, brown, weed-filled square, or a lush and green carpet you can be proud of.
There’s no doubt that sitting on your patio and cracking open a beer is the finest of all garden hobbies, but looking out across the barren wasteland that is your lawn doesn’t make for a happy vista.
Conversely, any man who can invite his pals’ round and reveal a beautiful green manicured lawn will win the envy of all his peers (our Gold Standard Turf will make you a king amongst men).
And with today’s modern products, results can be better, and quicker than you’d imagined.
It depends on the type and condition of your lawn.
As a hobby or casual gardener, you’re unlikely to be tending to your lawn night and day. In this case there are a number of really good, basic fertiliser treatments that you can put on once a year. These release nutrients slowly and keep the lawn fed on a regular, but low-maintenance basis.
Many good garden centres will advise you on the right product for your particular type of grass.
If you’re keen on taking it up a notch, then you might look at feeding your lawn more regularly. A rough timetable for feeding your lawn would be 4 times a year;
Note; always fertilise as soon after mowing as possible and don’t mow straight after fertilising or you’ll just remove most of the product.
Most fertilisers are granular and so it’s preferable to use a spreader as you get the most even coverage, but you can use the hand sprinkle method if you want to avoid the cost of a spreader.
Careful here, too much of the fertiliser can scorch or burn the grass, so always follow the manufacturer’s instructions and try to spread evenly and lightly.
We’ve got a reasonable climate here in the UK for grass growth, hence most of our landscape being covered in it.
But most of our grass is hardy and really benefits from some care and a well-balanced set of nutrients will ensure it stays in great condition, at the same time it will also recover quicker when it’s damaged (normally from an impromptu kid’s footy tournament).
It also gives it a very green and lush appearance which is an immense source of joy when looking out on your little patch of heaven.
We supply two types of turf – Gold Standard which is hard-wearing and low-maintenance, and Platinum Standard which offers a show-quality finish with a little extra care and attention.
Our lawn laying service can take care of laying your turf using the recommended methods, or of course you can lay it yourself or hire a third-party turf laying contractor.
We go beyond a basic turf laying service and can also prepare the site to a high standard if required, so the soil is level, fertile and well-watered to provide your turf with everything it needs in its new location.
For friendly advice we are happy to help and all enquiries are welcomed.
Get in touch with the team now and let’s get your lawn looking lush.
We all love a pest-free lawn, but healthy grass – and healthy turf – is a haven to all kinds of creepy crawlies and some even bigger pests too.
Here are some of the usual suspects and how to deter these unwelcome visitors to your lawn so you can enjoy your lush grass undisturbed.
Probably the most common invaders of healthy earth are ants, and people have varying opinions of these.
Most people have a problem with red ants, which will bite, but opinions are more mixed as to whether non-biting black ants are an issue or not.
If you see black ants as an ally, you might even want to encourage them to set up colonies around your lawn, in order to fight off any invading red ants.
To deter ants completely, a commonly recommended home remedy is to mix equal parts of peppermint oil and vodka – which helps it to dilute – into a spray bottle of water, which you then spray around the affected areas of your lawn.
An alternative to peppermint oil is tea tree essential oil, or a combination of these, as both are said to be unpleasant aromas for ants to be around.
You won’t often see a mole, but you can’t miss the mess it leaves behind. Catching moles is a job best left to the professionals, so get help as soon as possible if your lawn has an unwelcome house guest.
Pest control should take care of any moles that have set up home, although a healthy garden will continue to be attractive to future residents too.
There’s not a lot you can do to deter future moles if your garden is in good condition, so in this instance it’s best just to take prompt action if you see the unmissable evidence of a new arrival.
Again, worms are a sign of healthy soil, and they also help to aerate the soil and maintain good growing conditions for grass and the roots it puts down.
The small wiggly piles of soil left on the surface are easily brushed away, and worms will help to control the population of smaller, potentially damaging bugs in the soil, as well as attract birds to your garden after rainfall.
If anything, you should aim to encourage a healthy population of worms in your soil, as they will not usually cause significant damage to turf – and they’re not alone in being ‘pests’ that are actually on the side of the gardener.
Not all visitors to your garden are pests at all, and there are all manner of creatures that are more likely to visit you if your lawn and flowerbeds are in good condition.
These range from bees, birds and butterflies in the daytime, to hedgehogs and foxes after dark, and urban gardens are an essential habitat for many of them.
Before you make your garden too difficult for them to access, consider becoming an ally to these creatures – they will often do their own part in return by eating unwelcome insects and providing you with a free, environmentally friendly pest control service!
Has your lawn lost a battle with pests? We provide a professional lawn laying service, so you can start over armed with these tips for a lush green haven.
When customers buy a new turf lawn they often ask us how to stripe a lawn, and whether it’s anything to do with the direction you lay turf.
In fact it is not the direction of the turves that matters, nor is it achieved by using different types of grass in each stripe, but to stripe a lawn you just need to mow it correctly.
Once your grass is at a good length, mow it in alternating directions and you should end up with a striped effect.
But if you want to know how to stripe a lawn for the strongest visual effect, here are a few more things to keep in mind.
Using a lawnmower with a rear roller will give you a stronger striped effect. The roller flattens the blades of grass in the direction of the lawnmower.
By alternating the direction that the blades are flattened in, the light reflects off of them differently, like the nap of a soft cloth like velvet.
This enhances the visual effect achieved by mowing alone, and lawnmower rollers are the main way to achieve a more professional striped lawn effect.
The length of the blades of grass also affects how strong the striping effect looks, and you might be surprised to learn that longer blades can have a stronger effect.
By mowing with your lawnmower deck set higher above ground level, you leave longer blades of cut grass in place, and that means when the roller passes over them, there’s more of a difference between looking in the direction of the flattened blades compared with viewing them end-on.
Again, this means the optical effect caused by how the light reflects is much more pronounced, which is why it’s often easier to get a professional-looking striped lawn by letting your grass grow longer.
Last but certainly not least, if you want to maintain a striped lawn effect for a long time, don’t always flatten the blades of grass in the same direction.
At the very least, you should reverse the direction of your stripes every so often, so the blades are flattened in the opposite direction.
You might also want to change the pattern, for example using horizontal stripes instead of vertical, changing the width of your stripes, or going for a diamond or checker board pattern.
All of this gives the individual blades of grass chance to recover instead of repeatedly exposing them to the stress of being mown and rolled in the same direction, which can lead to less healthy and uniform growth. Once you’ve got your designer striped lawn down to a T, check out our other garden design ideas.
If you’re planning to stripe your lawn regularly, our Gold Standard turf offers rapid shoot recovery and is ultra hard-wearing under reasonably heavy foot traffic too. Find out about getting a turf delivery by speaking to our team.
By choosing a durable turf you create a lawn that can withstand the rigours of being striped regularly over a prolonged period, and that gives you the best chance of achieving the visual effect you hoped for over the long term.
This Stress Awareness Month, we’re taking a moment to understand some of the causes of stress to your lawn and how to fix them.
Lawn stress can leave grass looking yellow, dry or patchy, and in the worst cases can leave you with completely bare patches of earth.
Here are five causes of lawn stress and how to fix them, from damaged grass recovery through to replacing the lawn with fresh turf deliveries.
Heat and strong sunlight pose a direct risk that’s different from the grass simply drying out (more on that below) and can be relatively easy to protect against.
In a hot spell, provide extra shade if you can, especially on thin and damaged areas, and consider mowing the grass less often or to a longer length so the roots are less exposed.
Not surprisingly, the answer to dry weather is to water your grass more often, although you should be careful to comply with any hosepipe bans.
If laying turf in dry weather, make sure the soil beneath is well watered and that you water newly laid turf regularly to help it get established and start drawing up moisture through its own root system.
Weeds can choke your lawn and look unsightly, and range from flowers like dandelions and daisies, to surface growth like clover and moss.
There are a few ways to tackle them – lawn feed and weed is one option, while larger weeds can be individually dug out – and you may need to reseed any small bare patches left behind.
Thatch is the dead grass and other debris that forms around the roots of a healthy lawn, and it should be removed regularly to keep the grass healthy.
Springtime is a good time to do this process – called scarification – before you take other action like fertilising and seeding the lawn.
Different lawns have different uses, and in a family home or when you have pets, that can mean more traffic crushing the blades of grass, something that can be helped with lawn topdressing.
But there are also different types of turf that can revamp a worn out lawn, which is why our Gold Standard turf is the better option for ‘busier’ lawns, as it’s ultra hard-wearing and recovers quickly when trodden underfoot.
If you’re lawn has suffered stress beyond repair, it may be time to lay a brand new lawn and start over fresh. You can purchase rolls of fresh turf from our farm and we’ll even provide a professional lawn laying service to get you all set up.
Whether you’re caring for newly laid turf or your lawn is already established, there are some important times of year on the typical lawn care calendar.
Here we look at some of those landmark moments both for new turf aftercare and for general lawn maintenance in order to keep your grass looking lush and green with healthy roots.
Beware of frost and look after your garden over winter. You can’t lay frozen turf but once turf is laid, frost should not kill it – just avoid walking on frozen grass as you’ll crush the delicate blades.
Apart from that, January is usually a fairly low-maintenance month, so just keep your grass free from leaves and any debris blown on to it by storms.
If temperatures are above freezing, the wetter conditions in February are a good time to check on drainage. Fork your lawn to improve drainage and make a note of any hollows.
Dry Februaries give you time to make a head start on scarifying your lawn, to remove dead growth and accumulated moss from the bed of the lawn and encourage new spring growth.
The start of spring is your chance to give your lawn an MOT. Rake out any remaining dead growth and brush off worm casts and other surface detritus.
Feed well and watch for weeds that may start to appear in the warmer weather. This is one of the last recommended times of year to lay new turf, before the hot, dry summer days set in.
New turf lawns that have not yet fully rooted into the subsoil should be watered well to get them bedded in before the summer months.
You can start to mow mature lawns more regularly – just avoid any daffodils growing in the grass – and sprinkle a little extra soil into any hollows in the grass, so new shoots will grow and naturally fill them in.
By now any weeds should be apparent and can be tackled with a suitable weedkiller or by pulling them up by the root.
Continue to infill any depressions in the lawn surface with light applications of fine soil brushed gently into the grass – don’t smother the healthy grass though!
If you must lay new turf in summer, make sure the soil is well prepared with plenty of water, and water the new turf well to prevent it from drying out and encourage rooting.
You can protect existing lawns in dry weather by reducing mowing and cutting the grass to a longer length, as well as leaving the clippings on the lawn as a protective and moist mulch.
Hot weather is the enemy in the peak of summer. If the ground feels baked, spike it to allow moisture to penetrate, and water well to help tackle compacted and dry soil around your lawn’s roots.
Weeds such as clover are rampant at this time of year too, and prompt action is best to keep them at bay. Also look out for creepy crawlies such as ants, which should not threaten your lawn but can be a nuisance in the garden.
In dry summers, you can continue to mow to a longer grass length and leave the clippings on your lawn to retain some of their moisture.
In wet summers, you should have a lot more new grass growth to deal with, so mow the grass shorter and put the clippings in your garden waste or compost bin.
We are now entering the best time of year to lay new turf – temperatures are dropping, rainfall is increasing and there’s still a good few weeks for turf to put down roots before winter starts.
A gathering of starlings on the lawn could be an indicator of an infestation of leatherjackets, the grub of the daddy long-legs, so get your magnifying glass out and check if you need to dose your lawn with pest killer.
Again, a good time of year to lay turf. If the autumn weather is reasonably fair, it’s also a good time to prepare soil for laying turf, while giving it from a few days to a few weeks to settle before the turf itself goes on top.
You can give established lawns some last TLC for the growing season. Mow them to a longer length so they’re stronger over winter, spike them to improve drainage, and scarify to remove dead excess growth from summer.
Grass will be entering its dormant phase, depending on the temperature, so stop mowing and switch into low-maintenance mode.
If you haven’t done it yet, this is the last good time to tackle moss growth in your lawn using specialised moss killer and then scarifying to lift out the dead moss – just don’t damage the grass itself by scarifying too deeply in wet weather.
Finally, remember to avoid walking on lawns unnecessarily when the blades of grass are frozen by frost. December is a good time of year for visual inspections from a distance.
Again if you see birds congregating on your grass, you might have harmful grubs and other insects infesting it. Meanwhile standing water is a sign of hollows that can be gradually filled in with regular light sprinklings of soil in the new year.
If you are thinking about having a brand new lawn, talk to the team at Carbutts Turf, we will be able to advise you on the best way to proceed depending on what time of the year you plan to lay turf.
If your lawn meets your flower beds with an exposed edge, it’s likely that you will need to know how to edge your lawn occasionally to keep everything looking neat, tidy and healthy.
Here we take a look at the tools for edging a lawn, the different methods you can use, and how to help make sure your lawn edge looks healthy in the future.
These lawn edging tools are not all essential – it depends on which method you prefer to use – but they will each help to make it easier to edge your lawn regularly with less effort.
Remember, it depends on your lawn – a cutting guide like a plank is much more important on larger lawns where it’s harder to keep in a straight line by sight alone.
Edging a lawn is not something you need to do too often, and in most cases once a year should be enough to keep it looking relatively neat and tidy.
If you’re going to edge your lawn once a year, do it at the end of winter. This is usually when lawns are at their most damaged by heavy weather and the grass is at its least verdant, so it’s easier to see the healthiest – and least healthy – patches around the edges of your lawn.
By edging your lawn in late winter, you also make sure it is well prepared for the warmer, lighter days of spring, when the grass should spring back into its more active stage of growth and your tidy edges will really start to pay off in terms of the overall aesthetic of your garden. For ways to make sure your lawn is cared for throughout the yea, take a look at the Carbutts Lawn Care Calendar.
Once you have the tools you need, it’s time to get to work. If necessary, mow the grass to a short length that reveals exactly where the natural edge of your lawn currently lies. Stray and straggly long grass can be cut back with long-handled shears – if you’re lucky, the lawn edge will look tidy enough to leave it at that.
Some electric garden strimmers have an edging function which allows them to automatically cut along a 90-degree line, so this can make light work of clearing long grass from the edge if you have one.
If the grass has started to encroach into the flowerbed, or has died back from the lawn edge, it’s time to carry out some lawn edge surgery.
Use a sharp-bladed shovel or half-moon edging tool to dig down through the grass and the topsoil, and remove as little as possible to restore the shape of the edge. Use a plank to guide you on straight edges, or lay out string, rope or a length of garden hose to help you visualise curved edges.
If you have line of sight past an obstacle, for example a fish pond or curved flowerbed that cuts into the straight edge of the lawn, consider using a laser pen or laser measuring tape as a guide to continue the straight edge in perfect line at the other side.
For obstacles like trees or lamp posts that are positioned right on the edge of your lawn and cannot be moved, you might want to cut back the lawn edge in a semicircle around the base of the obstacle, before continuing the straight edge either side.
While edging a lawn is often about cutting back excess growth, it can also mean correcting areas where the grass has died back from the edge, dried out due to the extra heat and wind exposure, or where you have accidentally cut too far into it.
To repair broken lawn edges, if the damage is minor, you can cut a section of turf from the edge and simply rotate it so the damage is away from the edge, leaving you with an unbroken and healthy edge, and a small area of damage that is hidden by the grass around it.
For more extensive damage, consider laying fresh turf at the edge of your lawn for a completely undamaged and unbroken edge that you can take better care of in the future.
To prevent excess grass growth in future, you might want to consider a physical barrier for lawn edges. These can include brick, cast concrete edgings, wooden edgings and even metal or plastic barriers that sink nearly flush with ground level to hold back the grass roots.
You can use lawn edgings as a visually appealing addition to your garden, especially if you use natural materials like wood or stone, and they can also be a useful way to recycle materials like old bricks or roof slates for a rustic and lived-in effect.
We at Carbutts provide a professional lawn laying service that includes edging. We are adept at laying turf on complicated areas to create full, lush looking garden lawns. Get in touch today to discuss your options with us.
Scarifying your lawn is not about aerating the soil beneath your grass, it’s actually about removing organic material like moss and compacted grass growth so the new blades of grass can grow in more easily.
In this guide we’ll look at scarifying an old lawn, regular scarifying for a healthy lawn, and some other steps you can take to encourage healthy grass growth and re-growth.
You can hire a lawn scarifier for a one-off job, but because this is something you should do to your lawn regularly for the best results, you might want to consider whether to buy a lawn scarifier or dethatcher so you can always have it on standby.
A wire rake is the best tool to remove dry leaves and other surface debris, as well as any moss. Moss has a very shallow root layer so should just pull away on the tines of the rake.
For smaller areas you can do this by hand – wear gardening gloves to avoid blisters and consider talcum powder for extra comfort too.
You can get mechanical rakes for larger lawns (sometimes called ‘rakers’ to distinguish them from hand rakes) and some lawnmower manufacturers produce these as attachments for cylinder mowers.
What is lawn thatch? If you look closely at an old lawn that has not been scarified in some time, you’ll find old blades of grass matted down against the earth, mixed in with moss, clover, and other old weeds.
This eventually forms a barrier covering the earth and preventing new blades of grass from growing through so easily. In the worst cases it can prevent the lawn’s new growth completely, killing off the grass.
Scarifying is a mechanical process that cuts through this thatch and removes it, without removing the healthy grass – you need to be careful when scarifying a healthy lawn to avoid damage, but it is a process that is carried out regularly on the best-looking gardens.
A manual roller scarifier should give acceptable results on a domestic lawn, but you might want to consider an electric or petrol-powered garden dethatcher for that little extra oomph when it comes to carving up compacted growth and lifting it away from the healthy lawn.
You can stop after dethatching the grass or, for even better results, continue to aerate the soil by scarifying again with a longer blade setting.
The difference between the two processes depends on whether or not the blades make full contact with the ground – if you allow them to penetrate the earth, they will reduce compaction in the surface and introduce some fresh air into your lawn’s root structure.
It’s especially good to do this if you’re planning to sow new grass seed to thicken the lawn and make it look healthier, as scarified earth has a broken-up surface with furrows for the seed to bury itself into.
Here are a few more things to keep in mind when scarifying a lawn that should help to give you the best results:
Scarifying a lawn is easier the more often you do it, as the soil and thatch should be less densely compacted, but it naturally runs the risk of damaging healthy grass growth too, so find your balance and consider lightly raking more often than you fully scarify and aerate.
There are a few extra steps you can take to make a scarified lawn look even better:
Finally if your lawn is too uneven or your grass has already perished significantly, you might want to consider laying a new lawn using turf, and give your garden a fresh start.
With a freshly laid turf lawn you can make sure the ground is rolled out smooth and flat, and begin a regular schedule of gentle raking and scarifying to keep it looking great for years to come.
There are a few different factors that affect how to reseed your lawn, starting with the condition of the existing lawn – are you looking to thicken some already healthy grass, or sow a different variety, or do you have large patches of bare earth to contend with?
In this guide we take a look at some of the common situations and the difference they can make to how you reseed your lawn for the best results.
Not all of the above are essential, but if you have them all available, you’re likely to get the best results out of reseeding your lawn.
Whether they’re in your lawn or your flowerbeds, weeds are the bane of a gardener’s existence, and if you want to remove them for good you’ll need to pull out the root using a weeding tool.
That can leave bare patches with no grass growth – so add a little fertiliser or compost to the exposed earth and scatter lightly with a matching type of grass that will blend seamlessly with the rest of your lawn.
For larger bare patches, scarify, fork or rake the earth to remove old growth and aerate it, and make sure it is well watered and fertilised.
Next, sprinkle the right kind of grass seed in the right amounts – using an excessive amount of seed will just make the grass grow too thickly and is more likely to attract birds who will feast on the seeds.
To reseed a thin lawn in order to thicken the grass across the whole area, first remove any weeds, then mow the existing grass to a close crop.
Scarify the surface, fertilise and prepare well with plenty of water before adding the seed – a grass seed spreader or hopper/dispenser can help get the density right over large areas.
If there’s no grass at all, then you’re in a good position to dig over the earth and introduce some good quality top soil and fertiliser.
You can then sow your preferred grass seed or lay a new lawn using turf to quickly cover the area with a healthy and attractive lawn.
Whatever you are trying to achieve, from filling in after weeding, to growing a new lawn from scratch, there are a few general things to remember:
Keep a close eye on your grass seed for several weeks but try to avoid walking on the lawn until it has had a chance to grow in, and you should get better results.
Here are a few optional extras that can give an even better result when you reseed a lawn:
With these simple top tips to reseed your lawn and the right equipment, you can make short work of sowing the seed and keep it protected from the elements and pecking beaks until your lush new green grass is fully grown in.
If you think your lawn may need more attention that just reseeding, take a look at our gold standard turf, you can collect freshly cut turf from us at our Sandbach farm. Contact us today to find out more.